Patterning the Bodice and Dropped Waist

   Once I received Gina's measurements, I could begin!  The first step is to create an initial pattern.  This particular pattern is not a whole lot like what the final dress bodice will look like, but it is a beginning.  It is something that I can put on Gina, that will fit her measurements, that I can then alter and change until it becomes what she is interested in wearing.

  The first thing is to create this pattern.  In college I was given a copy of The Pattern Development Handbook by Rosemary Ingham & Liz Covey.  In it are very explicit instructions on how to manipulate measurements to create a grid, and create the basic body block.  If you look closely at the first pictures you can see the faint gridlines I began with.

  The triangular pieces are darts marked within the pattern.  Darts are used in clothing to gather extra cloth to allow for curves.  These darts are here so that the garment will fit closely to Gina to begin with, and then I will take them out by using princess seams to control the fullness of fabric.  NSA stands for No Seam Allowance.  It's there to remind me to cut a seam allowance in the fabric when I cut out the peaces.  Where it says straight of grain - I am reminding myself in which direction I want the grain of the fabric to go.
   Fabric has three directions, straight of grain, cross grain and bias.  Straight of grain is the warp threads in a fabric.  It is the direction in which fabric has the least amount of stretch.  Cross grain is exactly what it sounds like, 90 degrees from straight of grain.  It is the second least stretch direction.  Bias is 45 degrees from straight of grain in either direction.  It is the direction of most stretch in a fabric.  This is important when creating patterns because it effects how the fabric falls and stretches with gravity and the weight of the cloth.

   The next thing I decided to pattern was the drop waist section of the bodice.  When you pattern the basic body block, it only comes down to the person's natural waist.  Gina was looking for something to come down mid-hip, so this is my first attempt at it.  It is the flat patterning for the top of a skirt (which starts at the natural waist).  In this first attempt they are separate, however after the first fitting when I recreate the patterns, I will make them one piece.  You can see there is a dart on the back piece here as well - to control fullness of fabric above the bum.  Again, notice the marks for straight of grain and No Seam Allowance.

Next step - cutting the muslin to fit the pattern, and creating the first bodice for the fitting!