Correcting the Pattern

So - as I said previously - the shape to the front of the layers on the skirt was incorrect.  This is because I tried to take a shortcut - and guesstimate the shape that it should be.  This meant that I ended up with fullness in the wrong locations, and not enough in the right locations.  Let me show you what I mean.

This is the shape I originally started with.  The right hand side is where I cut on the fold. (Cutting on the fold means I had the fabric doubled over under the pattern, with the fold along that edge.  Generally I cut with the fabric folded over (not every piece uses the fold) because it allows me to cut two pieces at once).  As you can see, the shape is odd, with extra fullness off to the left.  The left seam is the side seam (as I said, this issue was just on the front of the dress, the back was correct).

In order to correct this - I start with the shape of the skirt underneath.  That is the shape to the right here. It is simply copied off the skirt pattern.  It is similar to the shape that I will want eventually for the layers - but the layers need more fullness, for they are going to be somewhat poofy.

Take a look at the shape to the left.  This is the correct way to add even fullness to the skirt.  I've taken the shape above, and cut it from the bottom into even pieces.  The top is where it attaches to the skirt, so  I don't want to add any fullness there. (Although if you were adding shirring or pleats there you would need to).  Then you spread apart the bottom, and tape them apart until you get the amount of fullness that you are looking for.  Then you trace this shape on a new pattern piece, and you are all set!  

The other corrections to the pattern are fairly simple.  Taking a bit of fabric out to change the fit is simply a matter of marking the dress while it's on Gina, and then transferring those marks to the pattern, and then creating a new pattern piece.  Once all these corrections were made, I rebuilt the dress again, for a new fitting with Gina!